A 10-Day Scotland Road Trip Itinerary

Never have I been to a place simultaneotusly so intimately familiar and amazingly unique as Scotland. Having grown up visiting England annually to see my family, there was plenty in Scotland that rekindled forgotten elements of nostalgia ... but everything in Scotland was so wrapped in its own history and culture, it felt totally unique.

From the "Athens of the North" that is Edinburgh, to the dazzling natural beauties of the Highlands and the islands, to the urban coolness of Glasgow -- not to mention all the Scotch, castles, and stunning vistas in between -- Scotland is wild.

While we were fortunate enough to have ten full days in Scotland, we felt like we still barely scratched the surface of everything there was to see. But below, we've provided a quick outline of our itinerary - it's not as daunting as it may seem (though it also may very well be).

Getting Around

Trains and busses serve lots of Scotland very well. However, for many more remote locations, public transport can be difficult or time consuming to use. To save time, we rented a car to travel between cities. Just be warned that roads in the more remote parts of Scotland can be single lanes for both directions of traffic, requiring drivers to use passing places to make way for oncoming vehicles. Be sure to familiarize yourself with road signs and etiquette beforehand.

Where to Stay

There is absolutely no lack of accommodation options throughout Scotland. Quaint B&Bs, cottages, hotels, and Airbnbs are available throughout, including in the more remote areas. To get as much local flavor as possible, we stayed at Airbnbs in Edinburgh, Inverness, Fort Augustus (by Loch Ness), Uig (on the Isle of Skye), Drimnin, and Glasgow. Click here to see five unique and quirky Airbnbs we stayed at.

Day 1 - Stockbridge + Edinburgh Old Town

Stockbridge

If you're anything like us, you took a red eye to Edinburgh and you landed both dead tired yet ready to set off and explore the town. Since our Airbnb was located around the corner from the suburb of Stockbridge, we decided to spend the first half of our day exploring the town and easing ourselves in.

First stop: food. We hopped over to The Pantry, which offers up creative takes on traditional meals (like Cullen Skink, a warming seafood chowder) using local produce. Our hearty lunch left us thoroughly warmed to compete with the damp Scottish weather. Some other great restaurants in the area include The Scran and Scallie and the Kilted Lobster.

The Pantry is beautifully situated two short blocks from the Water of Leith river walk. The walk itself is stunning, leading you past St. Bernard’s Well, who’s grand Greco-Roman structure rises from the river, supposedly offering healing powers. After about a quarter of a mile you’ll come across The Dean Bridge, which offers views of the charming 19th century Dean's Village. Keep in mind that Dean’s Village is purely residential so take in the historical houses but save the cafes and restaurants for Stockbridge.

After working up an appetite again (it doesn’t take us much), we headed back along the river to Stockbridge for some afternoon treats and shopping:

Smith & Gertrude for some wine and cheese pairings. Would recommend: 10/10.
Those Were The Days for beautiful vintage pieces (explore more vintage along quirky St. Stephen’s Street).
Golden Hare Books, an independent bookseller with beautifully curated adult and children’s books.
The Last Word Saloon for cocktails in a low-lit setting.

Edinburgh Old Town

After a relaxing day, we headed down to Edinburgh Old Town for the evening. As the sun set we headed into the beautifully moody Greyfriar's Kirkyard. Eroded gravestones and lichen covered Victorian mausoleums cover the graveyard, and you can easily spend an hour wandering between the graves looking at the names and inscriptions. You'll be in good company too as J. K. Rowling used the kirkyard as inspiration ... and the tomb of Tom Riddle still stands.

Now that we worked up an appetite, we headed to dinner at Ting Thai Caravan, a laidback and hip restaurant serving up Thai street food, which was only a short 5 minute walk away. Along the way we passed by the Greyfriars Bobby statue, the faithful Skye Terrier that guarded the grave of his owner for 14 years. Futurama vibes, anyone?

Back in the day, the city fell away on either side in steep hills, due to the Royal Mile being built on the spine of a volcanic mountain, forming closes - narrow and crowded alleyways containing buildings up to ten stories high. While a number of these closes still survive, most of them had the top stories of the buildings cut off with the lower floors now acting as a foundation for Edinburgh’s High Street. The Real Mary King's Close provides a tour of one of these now subterranean closes; it’s family-friendly for those a bit more frightened of the ghost tours (albeit a bit cheesy at times) and it does an amazing job taking you through the real history of the residents.

Day 2 - Edinburgh Old Town Cont.

Prepare yourself and take advantage of your jet lag. Today, we overachieved.

On the far side of the Edinburgh Old City is Holyrood Park and Arthur's Seat. Thought to be named after King Arthur, it is one of the two dormant volcanic peaks in Edinburgh (the castle being on top of the other). The peak offers stunning 360 degree views of Edinburgh and there are multiple ways to reach the summit. To make it for sunrise, Jen and I went up the steepface of the mountain, which is about a 60-flight slippery stone staircase (but there is also a slower and more gentle circuitous route up the mountain you can take). Give yourself at least an hour and a half for a slow hike to soak in the views (and wear sturdy shoes).

A 45 minute hike down from Arthur's Seat is Dishoom Edinburgh, an elegant and affordable Parsi restaurant serving up Bombay street food. While the food is filling, tasty, and unlike any other Indian food we've had before, the real show stopper was the house chai. It was without a doubt the best chai we've ever drank ... and they offered free refills.

The most visited location in Scotland, Edinburgh Castle is a stunning fortress that has been in use in various capacities almost constantly since the 12th century. For the historically inclined, the castle features numerous interactive exhibits and has been the site of significant events in both Scottish and English history. Note: The audio tour comes highly recommended!

Do you like whisky? Do you want to know about how Scotland's national drink is made? Do you simply want to rest your feet after all the walking you've been doing and go for a ride in a whisky barrel? If you answered yes, come along to the Scotch Whisky Experience. To be honest, the fast-paced and visual tour makes the process of distillation a bit more confusing; but it’s still a good time and the second half of the tour does a fantastic job explaining the five whisky regions of Scotland and the differences in their products. The silver level tour includes one whisky sample from any of the regions, time to see the world's largest whisky collection, and then ends in a tasting bar where you can purchase a flight of whiskies from all of Scotland's regions.

A quick jaunt from the old town is Calton Hill, another panoramic viewpoint overlooking the city. Aside from the views, it is also littered with stunning neo-classical buildings, the best of which is the National Monument of Scotland. Intended to be a Greco-Roman inspired monument to the Scottish soldiers who died during the Napeolanic Wars, the developers ran out of money half way through and the building, now lovingly known as Edinburgh's Disgrace, stands as mostly empty columns.

Calton Hill also is home to The Lookout, which offers high-end Scottish favorites in a glass-sided restaurant. The restaurant's views are spectacular, the food was delicious, and they have whiskies for cheap (a common theme throughout this guide).

Back in the Old Town across the street from the Scotch Whisky Experience is Camera Obscura & World of Illusions, a funhouse with five stories of various optical illusions. While the exhibits were a lot of fun, be warned that it can get incredibly crowded. Our favorite optical trick was the full functional camera obscura on the top floor, which was constructed from three mirrors in the late 1800s, projecting an image of Edinburgh onto a table in the room.

For those who aren’t squeamish, we present to you the Surgeon's Museum. Like Mary King's Close, the museum does not allow photos - which may be for the best, as the museum is largely comprised of anatomy specimens and exhibits about the evolution of surgery and medical care. The museum reception recommends two hours, but Jen lasted for only thirty minutes and I found myself being worn down not long after.

If you like creamy chicken, spiced lamb, chai, fragrant chutneys, and lavish desserts, Mother India's Cafe is for you. A follow-on restaurant location to the Mother India restaurant in Glasgow, they specialize in tapas-style Indian food.

Well, since it’s your last night in Edinburgh, it's time to get funky. Hit up some bars all the way home to lull you into a good night’s sleep:

Secret Arcade, a small vodka bar hidden off Cockburn Street with polish food and snacks.
The Devil's Advocate, a two-story pub in a surviving close. The pub features outdoor seating on the upper level, and has a huge selection of whiskies, craft beers, and amazing house cocktails.
Panda & Sons, a speakeasy without the pretentions of being a speakeasy. Panda & Sons has some of the most delicious and weirdly inventive cocktails we've ever had. Greek salad cordial and bathtub gin? Sugar snap pea cordial and absinthe? Absolutely.

Day 3 – ROAD TRIP TO INVERNESS

After picking up your rental car from Waverley Railway Station, get ready to kiss Edinburgh goodbye and head up north to the beauty of the Highlands and Inverness.

On the way north, stop by the city of Perth and and grab lunch or afternoon tea at Perth Bothy. Specializing in Scottish favorites made with fresh, local produce, the Bothy provides a perfect pit stop to see one of Scotland’s smaller cities while sampling its cuisine.

Further north, you pass the Dahlwinnie Distillery, one of the more famous Scotch distilleries in Scotland and rumored to be the Queen’s favorite. The distillery offers a variety of tour and tasting packages. As we were short on time, we opted to do a tasting only option, which offered six varieties, including two cask strength which are distillery exclusives (they threw in one on the house for Jen, the designated driver). The tastings are also paired with chocolates intended to bring out more of the flavor of each Scotch. Make sure to book ahead online; tours fill up fast and tastings are not run on a daily basis.

Once we reached our final destination, Inverness, we quickly dropped off our luggage and headed 20 minutes out of the city center for an alternative dinner option: The Croft Family Dining Experience. Hosted by locals Kacey and James in their beautiful home, we spent the evening drinking by the fireplace, enjoying an incredible, home-cooked, three-course meal (seriously, it was our favorite meal of our entire trip, believe it or not), and sharing life stories from the moment we arrived to the moment we left. We chose to drive ourselves but they also provide transportation to and from Inverness. I would highly, highly, highly recommend as this was our favorite night in Scotland.

Inverness is considerably smaller than Edinburgh and feels more like a town than a city, to be honest. Still, there are considerable nightlife options afoot, if you are so inclined. While we were more than fully content from the Croft dinner and drinks, Hootananny and The Castle Tavern are both supposed to provide an authentic Scottish pub experience – with music to boot.

Day 4 – INVERNESS + FORT AUGUSTUS

Wake up early today to give yourself plenty of time to see and take in the momentous amounts of Scottish history in the region. For a quick breakfast before hitting the road, Perk Coffee and Doughnuts provides coffee, hand-crafted doughnuts, and sandwiches to help power you through the day.

Best known now because of Outlander and its time portal rock or something (sorry, I don’t watch Outlander), are the Clava Cairns. These are large, Bronze Age stone burial cairns that typically each contained one burial chamber. Today, the beautifully calm cairns have been largely dismantled by archeologists and roving Victorians, but the bases of the cairns and the inner chambers still remain. It’s worth getting there early as the site may fill up with Outlander enthusiasts desperately trying to go back in time and find the Scotsman of their dreams.

Normally, Jen and I aren’t the biggest fans of visiting battlefields. However, the Culloden Battlefield and the museum are a masterclass in bringing history to life – which, for a battlefield, is both as good and bad as it sounds. The museum explains (and shows) in riveting detail the events leading up to the battle, which marked the end of the final Jacobite uprising in the UK and the start of the British policy of pacifying the Highlands.

What is truly unique about the museum is the effort it employs in explaining the lead up to the battle from the point of view of both the reigning British government at the time and the Jacobites (supporters of the Stewart monarchy, which had been deposed in Britain). This sort of apolitical historiography is fantastic to see and allows the museum to explore a polarizing event in British history with the needed nuance.

The exhibits in the museum, including a multimedia room surrounded on four sides with images of a recreation of the battle, do much to put you in the time and place of the battle before allowing you to walk along the battlefield itself. This grounding transforms what may otherwise be any other field and imbues it with the necessary weight and context.

If you’re feeling up for it and have time (we did not), then come on down to Cawdor Castle, the historic home of the real-life Macbeth. Although the real Macbeth was not plagued by witches and prophecy (who knew?), his castle is still a fascinating piece of history and features a drawbridge and gardens.

Back in Inverness, chow down at The Mustard Seed. A modern and swanky-without-being-pretentious former church-turned-restaurant, the Mustard Seed served up classic Scottish food with a reimagined twist for good prices. The salmon there (of course), the fish pie (classic), and the were amazing.

A few other notable places in Inverness that are also worth a visit:

After having your fill of land, take a cruise along Loch Ness. We used Jacobite Tours and the Freedom Cruise, which gives you a one hour guided boat ride along Loch Ness and then one hour of free time to explore the ruins of Urquhart Castle. Be sure to book these tours ahead of time, as they can fill up fast.

Loch Ness itself is beautiful, even though we didn’t spot Nessie. While the tour itself is interesting, we found we didn’t hear much of it as we preferred to stay outside on the deck where the wind drowned out any nearby sounds. The interior of the cabin, where we spent our time on the way back from the castle, is very comfortable and offers a range of Scottish snacks and beverages, including (of course) single malt Scotch and local beers.

Urquhart Castle itself is breathtaking. To get the full experience, be sure to go to the visitor’s center first and watch the brief eight-minute video about the castle’s thousand-year history. The video grounds the ruins and makes them feel more alive as a historical site versus just being moldering piles of ruins on which to climb and grab Instagram shots (not that we still didn’t do that anyway, being perfectly honest).

Although we didn’t have time, we would have loved to visit Glen Affric. Now a nature reserve, this area is one of the best examples of the old growth Caledonian forests that used to cover Scotland. If you find yourself with a second day in the area, be sure to take a hike through here.

Down on the southern tip of Loch Ness, in the small town of Fort Augustus, you’ll find a warming dinner at the Boathouse Lochside Restaurant. Serving a unique, and somehow delicious, mixture of Scottish and Turkish cuisine, the boathouse offers both stunning views of Loch Ness and a delicious meal. The deep fried Haggis is particularly good (as long as you don’t think about what’s inside it), as are the lamb kebabs and fish and chips. The Boathouse also serves the full variety of beers from Loch Ness Brewery – which are pretty good, but also not necessarily a must have (unless you’re an insufferable beer collector like me).

Day 5 – Onwards to Isle of Skye

On the way from Fort Augustus to the Isle of Skye is Eilean Donan Castle. It is easy to see why this is apparently the most photographed castle in Scotland. Situated on a tidal island where three lochs meet, Eilean Donan is a remarkable example of a fully restored 13th century castle complete with arched stone bridge leading to it. Although we did not go into the castle itself, we contented ourselves with scrambling on the rocks by the bridge leading to the island (much to the amazement of the other tourists waiting for the castle to open, who were sensibly taking shelter from a raging storm).

Only a little further from the castle and on the Isle of Skye is Harry’s Coffee Shop. A homey and café/restaurant/bakery, Harry’s offers a little of something for everyone – including, for those cold and hungry like ourselves, a full Scottish breakfast.

From the shop you can also snap a view of Caisteal Maol, the ruins of a 15th century castle overlooking the loch. Unfortunately, there is no easy way to get to the ruins beyond hiking along the entirety of the coast to get there.

On the way from Harry’s into the main body of Skye, you’ll pass by the Sligachan Old Bridge. This is a beautiful photo spot to get out, stretch your legs, and take in some of the amazing natural beauty of Skye. If you have time, this is also the starting point for hikes into the Cuillin Special Protection Area – one of the best places in the UK for finding the Golden Eagle.

Welcome to the Isle of Skye! No visit to Skye is complete without a stop by the Talisker Distillery. Similar to Dahlwinnie, Talisker offers both tours and a tasting room bar. The tours book up fast and should be booked ahead of time, while the bar is open to all during business hours. Again, I would recommend against going on a tour here and instead sticking to the samples.

The Talisker bar features a wide of its products, including the Talisker 18 year, which may have been the most joyously balanced Scotch I’ve ever had. It also has its own distillery exclusives that are only able to be found here. Just remember that Talisker is known for making peatier (read, smokier) Scotches – so go in expecting some strong flavors.

Once you’re good and liquored up (or educated, depending how heavily you skew towards the bar or the tour), head on up the hill to The Oyster Shed. Serving ridiculously fresh seafood – including, of course, oysters, crab claws, mussels, and scallops – the Oyster Shed provides beautiful views of Loch Harport as well as a cozy and casual ambience.

A short drive from the Oyster Shed and Talisker are the Fairy Pools, a collection of pools and waterfalls along the River Brittle. The name Fairy Pools is apt. Walking along the river, facing the towering Cuillin Mountains and rising fields of heather and scrub, the river glistens like magic. Where it falls from the waterfalls, the river runs an azure blue but, where it pools, the water flows as liquid emerald.

The sheer intensity of the color of the pools is shocking. The rest of the scenery is equally breathtaking, from berried-trees hanging over the river like a bonsai hanging over a waterfall in a Chinese watercolor to skipping across stones in river tributaries to follow the hike up the falls. This hike is fairly accessible for all, though it can become slippery in rain and unpassable in heavy storms, when the tributaries overflow and block access further up to the falls.

But, even if it’s raining, it is still worth taking the chance to see the pools. The day before we went the pools were unreachable, but luckily for us, the tributary rivers had mellowed enough (even with us still getting plenty of rain) for them to be passable. In warmer weather, the pools are also swimmable – for those brave enough to meet fairies, at least.

After the Fairy Pools, head north to Dunvegan Castle. The oldest continuously inhabited castle in Scotland, Dunvegan offers tours, has a garden, and also gives boat trips to an island with a seal colony. Short on time and a little castled out, we opted to steer clear of the castle and instead hike up to the Duirinish Stone close by.

The stone was erected on the hill overlooking Dunvegan in 2000 completely manually, in a testament to the settlers of the region. The hike also takes you past the atmospheric ruins of St. Mary’s Church and its associated graveyard.

Time permitting, about fifteen minutes north of Dunvegan Castle is Coral Beach – a magically tucked away and sudden white sand beach. Surrounded by fields of heather and littered with lava rocks, the white sands and clear water are apparently reminiscent of a Caribbean vacation. Unfortunately, we did not have time to see the beach since we had to run to dinner.

For dinner, head over to the Three Chimneys. The restaurant prides itself on deconstructing Scottish cuisine and serving it with a fresh twist. While some of this was really unique, some of it also came across as a little pretentious and experimental for experimental sake. While the food was tasty, I’m not sure it’s worth the splurge – unless you are a fan of fine dining. To our mind, though, there are better meals to be had in Skye.

Day 6 – Hiking through skye

Café Arriba in Portree is a snug and quirky second-story café serving a variety of warming (and more importantly filling) Scottish standards. The full breakfast varieties include some variety of beans, sausage, eggs, scones, and cooked tomato, though there are also lighter options for those so inclined. Though for the upcoming day, we’d recommend having a heartier breakfast. Because up next, you’ll be going to … The Old Man of Storr.

Only six miles north of Portree is the Old Man of Storr, one of the most epic hikes and landscapes we have ever seen. A fairly steep, although not technical, hike up from Loch Leathan leads up to multiple rock pillars that erupt from the earth. The Old Man of Storr is essentially a fortress built by the mountains only accessible via a staircase for giants, that has long since been cracked and splintered by the merciless grindings of time and rain.

If the descriptions seem overly fantastical, it’s because the Old Man of Storr is a landscape plucked straight from the Lord of the Rings and dropped into Scotland. On clear days, the hike provides incredible views of the Storr, the loch, and the ocean beyond. On rainy days, like what we had, the view is obstructed but the atmosphere is remarkably unique.

If there is one thing to do on Skye, I think this hike would be it. Keep in mind, though, that the hike is steep and can be very slippery when wet. Also, we’d recommend devoting the main part of a day to the hike so you can really soak it in without feeling rushed.

Continuing up the eastern coast of Skye is Kilt Rock viewpoint, which offers a beautiful view of a waterfall and, of course, Kilt Rock. As the name suggests, Kilt Rock is a cliff face on Skye that due to its formation looks like a giant kilt. While Kilt Rock is not worth going out of your way to see, while traveling north from Skye it deserves a quick stop off.

Close to the most northern tip of the island is Single Track Art Gallery & Espresso Bar. Nestled in a cozy modernist building right off the road, Single Track is an ideal stop for a pick-me-up after hiking in the cold and rain (or also in the warm sun). Serving up a range of quality teas, coffees, and absolutely incredible house-made hot chocolates – along, of course, with home baked pastries like zucchini and walnut loaf, brownies, and shortbread – Single Track is definitely worth a stop while in this part of Skye.

Also close to the very northern tip of the island is Duntulm Castle, which once belonged to the MacDonald clan which ruled Skye. Abandoned in 1739, the clifftop remains provide a moody view over the northern portions of the island. The castle is a short walk from the Duntulm Sea viewpoint. Unfortunately, we were tired out from hiking up and down the Old Man of Storr in the rain and hail, so opted to skip seeing the castle up close.

If you find yourself with a good amount of time left in the day, consider trekking to Skye’s most northern tip at Rubha Hunish. Apparently the best place in sky to see birds and marine life, the trek can be somewhat treacherous through bog and steep scrambles. While we didn’t have the time, energy, or foreknowledge necessary to do this hike, others say it can be magical.

A day of big hikes calls for a big dinner. The Caroy House in the center of Portree offers a slightly fancier and chic, though most importantly delicious, take on pub grub and Scottish cuisine. The restaurant sources all its ingredients locally, and you can taste the freshness of everything the kitchen puts out.

Day 7 – Glenfinnan + Glencoe

For fans of Harry Potter and/or romantic and stunning architecture, the Glenfinnan Viaduct is a must. Used in the Harry Potter films for the Hogwarts Express, the viaduct is a functioning railway line that carries both boring passenger trains (boo) and fun Hogwarts-inspired steam trains (yay). The steam trains run over the viaduct daily at approximately 10:45 am and 3 pm. For those interested in seeing the Harry Potter train, aim to arrive at the parking lot at least 45 minutes before the train’s arrival – the area fills up fast.

A short hike from the Glenfinnan Viaduct parking spot leads to directly underneath the viaduct. From here are numerous hills surrounding the railway line that allow you to take in the approach of the steam train. Worth noting is that, while the area is primarily famous today for views of the train, there is also a hiking path into the hills that provides stunning views of Loch Shiel.

About an hour from the Glenfinnan Viaduct are the Three Sisters, three mountain peaks overhanging a massive valley just east of Glencoe. There is a convenient carpark just off the road that allows for views of the sisters, weather permitting. For those with a larger sense of adventure, the carpark is also the starting point for the Hidden Valley nature preserve trail path. The trail crosses over the River Coe and follows along its tributaries upwards towards the Three Sisters.

For those less adventurous or more pressed for time (read us), the beginning of the hike still provides stunning views of the valley. The entire area is simply awe inspiring. In particular, the way the valley opens up as you travel through it and the color shifts as the weather rolls through is magnificent.

Back in Glencoe, the Glencoe Gathering has everything you would expect from a well run local pub. The fried seafood is spectacular (try the salt and pepper calamari), the mac and cheese is hearty and warming, and the bar provides a wide choice of craft Scottish lagers and ales.

And now, we head to Drimnin, one of the most remote areas of Scotland sitting along the north east shore of the Sound of Mull. Almost exclusively consisting of a single track road, we made the trek to Drimnin mainly to stay in this beautiful Airship for two nights (more details here).

Day 8 – Relax in Drimnin

To take a break from all the driving, today is focused on relaxing in the beautiful and remote town of Drimnin. Have some breakfast in the airship, look out over the loch, and take the morning slow. Once you feel replenished, take a walk behind the Airbnb along a trail or through the countryside.

A must visit in the Drimnin area is the Nc’Nean Distillery. Having started distilling only in 2017, Nc’Nean has yet to produce any Scotch (which must be aged for a minimum of three years). However, the distillery has so far produced a botanical spirit as well as varieties of aged botanical spirits. All of which are incredibly unique and delicious.

In part due to its young age, Nc’Nean is focused on skirting tradition and becoming a new breed of distillery, as its inventive products already highlight. This is readily apparent both from its willingness to experiment with products while waiting for its Scotch to age to its focus on using sustainable, energy, and local ingredients. For the botanical spirit, Nc’Nean even collaborated with a local herbalist to identify the best locally growing plants to include.

We would highly recommend taking the time to do a tour of this distillery. Be sure to book online ahead of time, however, as Nc’Nean only allows so many guests to visit daily and annually. Tours also have the option of an additional lunch, which Jen and I took the distillery up on. This was one of our best decisions all trip, as Nc’Nean provided a full meal of salad, soup, fresh crusty bread, a spread of cheeses, and fresh line-caught mackerel salad. It makes me hungry just thinking about it.

For a fancy dinner (or lunch), the Whitehouse Lochaline specializes in inventive cuisine making use of only locally sourced ingredients. The menu changes daily based on what ingredients the restaurant can source and forage locally. The restaurant specializes in smaller tasting menus, and offers between three and six courses for dinner. As an example, some of the dishes we had were a multi-mix mushroom soup, crisped pork, and a Cullen Sink-style mixed seafood soup.

From Drimnin, there is a direct ferry to Tobermory, the largest town on the Isle of Mull. The ferry runs irregularly in the off-season, so it is worth planning ahead if you choose to visit Tobermory. Alternatively, from Lochaline, you can catch a ferry to Fishnish, which is a smaller village in the southern portion of Mull.

Day 9 – Drimnin to Glasgow

This is another early morning followed by a long drive down to Glasgow. But it’s worth it. It’s all worth it. We made a few pit stops along the way down to break up the drive and it’s hard to pick a favorite.

A short detour on the way to Glasgow is Kilchurn Castle, the ruins of a former Clan Campbell stronghold. Located at the end of a trail through a boggy field, the castle hangs over the northern tip of Loch Awe. Although the castle is currently undergoing renovations and you cannot access the inside, the approach to the castle and walking around its outside is significant. Unlike other ruins, the castle still stands largely intact, making gazing through its empty windows slightly creepy.

Nestled at the base of a ravine in Finnich Glen, the Devil’s Pulpit is a natural wonder. Used for location shoots in Detective Pikachu and, of course, Outlander, the pulpit and the ravine boggle the mind. The hike down into the ravine follows a set of fractured stone steps, known as Jacob’s Ladder, until, where the steps are truly worn away, a tied suspension rope provides a scramble to the bottom of the ravine.

At the base of the ravine, a red river slices through soaring emerald cliffs coated in moss and lichen. The stones at the river based, smoothed by the passage of time and water, appear plasticine. Though the distance between the top and bottom of the ravine is maybe only a hundred feet, it feels a world away as the light glows green and the largest noise is the flow of the water (and maybe laughing tourists).

You can walk along the river in the ravine to the pulpit, where you can give a sermon if you want. The hike into and out of the ravine is a scramble and set off my vertigo, but, if you are physically capable, it is a beautiful stretch and absolutely worth the trip.

A quick drive from the Devil’s Pulpit is Obsession of India in Paisley. Offering up a range of expected dishes and specialties, Obsession of India served up extremely delicious food at an affordable price. The garlic naan was also perhaps the best naan we’ve had, with huge chunks of garlic baked right onto its super fluffy texture.

While in Paisley, also consider stopping off and visiting the Paisley Abbey. Founded in 1163, the abbey has extensive and continued links to the Scottish (and ultimately British) monarchy.

Our final stop before Glasgow, just a few minutes outside of Paisley, is the Airbnb experience Alpaca Trekking and Scottish Scenery … and the experience lives up to its name. For an hour, you can walk one of three alpacas at a farm up a hillside to see the beauties of the Scottish countryside. After the walk, once the alpacas have adjusted to you, you can give them a good ol’ rub and appreciate how incredibly thick their wool is. Like, seriously, thick.

Downtown Glasgow has a wealth of restaurants. For some fine Italian, check out Azzurro. Although the Italian is not quite up to New York standards (and obviously not close to what you would find in Italy), the ambience is comfortable and the food is still commendable. The bruschetta in particular was delicious, as was the pasta. The pizza also has a great variety of toppings, though the dough was slightly lacking.

After nine days of running around, you deserve a chance to cut loose and go wild. A solid first stop is The Howlin’ Wolf, a large blues-inspired bar and soul food restaurant. If you’re not in for a night of bar hopping, this place is great to chill in for a night.

For whiskey lovers, or those whiskey curious, check out The Pot Still. Perhaps the coolest bar I’ve been to, it offers over 700 whiskey variants. This is obviously daunting, but it becomes significantly more manageable thanks to the incredible talents of the bar staff. Tell them a whiskey you like, or a flavor you’re looking for, and they’ll pull down a number of varieties for you to smell before deciding on a drink. For someone like Jen who likes gin but not whiskey, they were even able to pull out some varieties that had more gin like flavors.

To end the night with a bang, head over to The Garage. A multistoried nightclub with a variety of rooms for DJs and bans, The Garage played a wild mix of old school rap, indie classics, and house music depending on where in the venue you are. In general, Jen loves clubs as much as I detest them. The fact that we both had a great time here should be a good indicator of how much fun it was. Note: The Garage charges a cash only cover. Also, we got there early to skip the line like the old geezers we are.

Day 10 – Exploring Glasgow

Sitting on a hill close to Glasgow’s West End, the University of Glasgow overlooks the city. Appearing as something from Hogwarts, the university’s Gilmorehill location radiates glory. From its vaunted arches to its impeccable stonework and tower, the university is simultaneously romantic and imposing. It’s a great place to start the morning.

A short walk from the university is Kember & Jones, a café and bakery combination. With big fronted windows, fresh baked goodies, solid wooden tables, and delicious coffee and teas, Kember & Jones is a great place for a quick pick-me-up and an intro to the West End neighborhood. Be warned (or maybe be delighted) that the portions are large.

One of the hippest parts of Glasgow, everyone passingly familiar with the city will tell you to go to Ashton Lane and the surrounding neighborhood – either for food, drinks, window shopping, and vintage sifting. For beer lovers, Ashton Lane is home to an Innis & Gunn Brewery taproom. Next door to it is the Grosvenor Cinema, a refurbished classic movie theater.

At the top of the West End is the Glasgow Botanic Gardens. While not extremely large, the gardens provide a gentle respite from the city. The Kibble Palace and the greenhouses are both worth exploring. The gardens also host events throughout the year.

In the heart of the West End, the Hanoi Bike Shop offers an offbeat and funky venue for eating some fresh and homemade Vietnamese food. The homemade tofu is delicious and perfectly textured, while the pho is flavorful and comes in gigantic portions. While Jen and I really enjoyed the food, note that it is a different, distinctly English take on Vietnamese that differs from Vietnamese food you may find elsewhere. Still, it’s delicious and worth eating at for any who love Vietnamese food.

Just a few steps away from lunch, you’ll find yourself at Starry Starry Night Vintage, which is full of retro and vintage treasures that will delight thrifters around the world. It opened back in 1986 and has been home to a collection of secondhand kilts, clothing from the 60’s-70’s, beautiful wedding dresses, and smaller accessories. You could easily spend an hour just sifting through all their finds - Jen ended up taking a beautiful vintage nightgown home.

On the other end of the city sits the Glasgow Cathedral and, seemingly hanging above it, its Necropolis. The cathedral is an iconic, massive construct of a building. Dedicated in 1136, it’s also the oldest cathedral in the Scottish mainland and the oldest surviving building in Glasgow.

The Necropolis above it dates to the Victorians. Full of massive mausoleums and monuments on its summit, the Necropolis is everything a graveyard should be. It’s the type of site that would make Edgar Allen Poe cackle – so if that’s your type of thing, be sure to visit.

In central Glasgow, be sure to stop by The Lighthouse. The former site of the Glasgow Herald newspaper, the lighthouse now features multiple exhibits of modern art as well as a 360 degree viewing platform from which to the rest of the middle of the city.

A short jaunt from The Lighthouse is the iconic Gallery of Modern Art, a library and modern art museum. While we didn’t go inside, we appreciated the statue of the Duke of Wellington out front which, since at least the 1980s, has been donned with a traffic cone as a hat. Recently, Glaswegians has also taken to putting traffic cones on the head of the Duke of Wellington’s horse.

Also consider a trip to the Sharmanka Kinetic Theatre. Originally launched in Russia, the theatre has been a mainstay and hidden treasure of Glasgow since 1996. The show features hundreds of puppets, carved figures, and pieces of scrap performing synchronized choreography. While we had tickets for the show, we forgot to attend due to the sheer grandeur of everything else we were doing in Glasgow.

Heading Home

And that’s all we got, folks! Hopefully you’ll love Scotland as much as we did. If there was any must see sights we missed, please let us know in the comments below.

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